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Changing oil - does it have to be warm?

Is it necessary to run the engine to get the oil warm before draining it? By the time I get to change my oil, the boat will have been sitting for over a month. It seems to me that all of the oil will be in the sump and should drain right out. If I run the engine to get the oil warm, the oil will have to drain back down to the sump again before it can be drained.		 William
Oct 1
2005
All the oil is going to drain back down to the pan right away. If it didn't the pump would run out of oil pretty quickly. It is easier to pump out when hot but it really doesn't matter.

"William Andersen" <wgander@adelphia.net> wrote in message

JamesgangNC
Oct 2
I have done both ways over the years but I always liked putting a drain pan under the oil pan and let it drain overnight.

"William Andersen" <wgander@adelphia.net> wrote in message

Woodchuck
Oct 2
I always drain the oil hot for a number of reasons. I need to stabilize the fuel and fog the engine as part of my "winterizing" procedure. I fill up the gas tank, put in the fuel stabilizer and run the engine till it hits 175 degrees. I know the fuel stabilizer has run through the system including the fuel jets, the thermostat is open so it is easier to completely drain the water from the engine, and just before I shut the engine down, I fog the engine so the cylinders are protected. As soon as the engine chokes out, I drain the oil using the tube down the dip stick and use an oil pump attached to a portable drill. I pump the oil into old 5 gal oil containers so I can drop them off at Jiffy Lube, to be recycled. If the oil was not hot, it would be like trying to suck honey through a straw.

As soon as I have drained the oil, I open all "cocks" on the engine and remove the water hoses to drain all water from the block. I also remove the "Spark Arrestor/Air Filter" from the engine and clean it with gas or Carb Cleaner. Every "even" year I pull the water pump and remove the impeller. I do not replace the impeller till the next spring, but I place it a bag (along with a new fuel filter) next to the water pump to be installed next spring.

After I have finished all of the above, the engine has cooled off enough that I can easily remove the oil filter. I always fill the oil filter with oil prior to replacing.

At this point, I clean up all water (and any oil I might have spilled) from the bilge, remove the batteries so they can be kept on a trickle charger at home. The cold and low battery charge are very tough on batteries and can seriously reduce the life of your batteries. In the Spring, I bring the batteries to the local Firestone dealer to have him do a free load check on the batteries. If the batteries don't pass his test, I buy new ones. I normally get 3 years from the batteries.

This may not be the best way to do it, but it has worked for me for the last 20 plus years.

"JamesgangNC" <jamesgangnc@nospam.com> wrote in message

Mr.
Oct 2
Why pump another month's condensation through your engine. Best case is to drain it when it is hot and has been running for a while to boil out the water. Now that it has been sitting, just dump it. gfretwell
Oct 1
Cold, the oil is already drained down into the sump. Hot, there is still oil in the cylinders which helps when you crank it to check to leaks after changing.

Take your pick - one way is as good at the other.

 Shortwave
Oct 2
I drain mine warm. That way most of the sediment is mixed in with the oil and flows out of the pan. Also, the oil drains better and doesn't leave as much of the old stuff in the pan to mix with the new. This experience comes from changing oil and filters on my Moto Guzzi, where I must remove the pan to change the filter. PocoLoco
Oct 2
   
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