Submerge the Trailer When We Launch a Boat?
Should we submerge a trailer when we launch a 18-ft boat from it? I
was asking this because I saw the boat dealer who sold my boat almost
fully submerged the trailer when they launched the boat for a sea
trail. I was under the impression that we should move the trailer down
to the point where the wheel axle is right above water. I was kind of
surprised to see that. Does this have something to do with the fact
that the trailer doesn't have a way to tilt the boat down? May be the
boat dealer just want the boat into the water as quickly as possible?What's the proper way to launch a boat from a trailer if the trailer
doesn't have a way to tilt the boat? Thanks in advance for any info. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Nov 7
2005
|
| Us 'poor folk' use blocks. I had some 8" x 8" treated posts left over
from a deck project that I use. |
Don
Nov 8
|
| In other words, this is probably inevitable that the trailer will get |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| AKA "Jack stands". Maybe it's a regional thing. :) > By the way, do you need a wheel stand for the front wheel that is made
> from hard plastic? Nope.
|
Garth
Nov 7
|
| Good to hear that. Seem like the aluminum and stainless steel |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| Thanks for the explanation. |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| If you have brakes on the trailer that is a good reason NOT to dunk
the wheels. They don't like being wet, particularly salty and wet |
gfretwell
Nov 7
|
| I've heard people advise not to overgrease the Buddy Bearings. Think it
could blow a seal....but maybe someone more experienced can advise. |
Don
Nov 8
|
| Throw in the tide as another variable involved in launching.... |
Gene
Nov 7
|
| Boat, Motor, Trailer. I just meant the trailer design and the hull design may mean you have
to dunk it to get the boat off. You might want another trailer style
if you can get it.
Bearing buddies are a good idea but not a cure all. You should still
do a dissassembly, cleaning and visual inspection at least once a
year. Maybe more you are in salt water and go a couple times a week.
Don't over pump your bearing buddy. It will squirt grease everywhere
and if you are really going fast with the gun you can blow the rear
seal out. As soon as you see the plate start moving stop pumping. It
is now under spring pessure and that is all you need. |
gfretwell
Nov 7
|
| Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected. |
chuckgould.chu...
Nov 7
|
| : Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
: of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
: to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
: the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
: sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
: lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected. Good answer. The key is to get the boat floating. Back up enough to get the back end of the
boat to "bob up". Note the depth of the trailer at that point. When
I retrieve my boats, I usually have the trailer a little more shallow than
the "float point" so it'll self center on the trailer. For my small I/O,
that's usually when the fender of the trailer is about 2 inches out
of the water. However, every boat, trailer and ramp behaves differently so you'll have
to get to know your setup. barry |
Nov 7
|
| In a perfect world that is right but different boats, trailers and
ramps may make dunking the hubs necessary.
If you are buying a BMT combo that could be a concern, particularly if
you plan on it being a trailer boat. Dunking the hubs means you have
to be dilligent in your bearing maintenance |
gfretwell
Nov 7
|
| Sure. the trailers are made to have the back axle dunked. however,
there is always going to be water seeping into the wheel berings even
though the trailer may be brand new, and the wheel seals in new shape.
The seals are made to keep the grease in the bering, but not
necessarily anything else out. every year when you winterize your boat and park it, you should pull
the wheel hubs and have the berings flushed out and new grease
installed. that's part of winter maintenence. after I do this, I even go as far as parking the boat and trailer,
jacking it up and putting it on wheel stands so there is no weight on
the tires or springs. trailer stuff seems to last longer |
tschnautz
Nov 7
|
| : Sure. the trailers are made to have the back axle dunked. however,
: there is always going to be water seeping into the wheel berings even
: though the trailer may be brand new, and the wheel seals in new shape.
: The seals are made to keep the grease in the bering, but not
: necessarily anything else out. Ever hear about "Bearing Buddies"? They would keep the water out of the
bearings and have been standard on many trailers for decades. Google search 'em if you don't know what they are. b. |
Nov 7
|
| Thanks. This makes sense. The ramp in the boat dealer's place is kind |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in saltwater when we launch the boat? > Dunking the hubs means you have to be dilligent in your
> bearing maintenance. Does this mean these:
- Wait in the parking lot for a while to cool down the ball bearing
before proceeding to the ramp.
- Use something like Bearing Buddy and pump grease into the
greaser cap of the ball bearing periodically to keep the interior
of the bearing assembly under pressure to prevent water from
getting into bearing assembly.
- Degrease and re-pack the ball bearing every year as a part
of winterizing procedure.
- Anything else that I am missing? Thanks. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| I have a tandem aluminum boat trailer with stainless steel fittings,
torsion bar suspension and stainless steel brakes, and a variation of
"bearing buddies." I regularly dunk about 75% of the trailer in the drink when launching or
retrieving my trailer boat. I wash the boat after every use, and while
doing that, I rinse off the trailer, especially the wheels and brakes. There is no visible rust anywhere on the trailer. This past spring,
after two full seasons of use, my dealer suggested checking the wheel
bearings and repacking them, which cost me about $60. Galvanized boat trailers do fairly well with the same kind of care,
except...you cannot see inside the steel box tubes that make up the
frames, so you don't know what is happening in there. Also, steel leaf
springs typically rust up no matter what you do. That's why I went with
aluminum and with torsion axles. |
Harry
Nov 7
|
| Thanks. I will add this in my winterizing procedure. |
jaykchan
Nov 7
|
| Dave Hall |
Dave
Nov 7
|
