Lister diesel starting problem

that too often)

What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called

an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing.

I have a limited ability to follow circuits!

Rarely are glow plugs still powered after the engine starts (i.e. use the 20V dc range of an elcheapo multimeter to ensure NO power is flowing to the glowplugs after start; none). The block temp sender is only there to give the system some idea of how long to leave the glowplugs timer on before the start is made (or even allowed)

Also don't be tempted to hot wire direct to the glow plugs, they usually have a pretty heavy resistor in the circuit to reduce the voltage supplied to the series linked glow plugs.

Again with your cheap multimeter you can take the glowplug series strap off, then on Ohms check the resistance of each glowplug, there should be some (not open circuit) & the readings should all be similar. Properly verify the plugs are getting current during the heat period & that they are all operating, before you go pulling them out on spec, they're expensive & easily damaged if a bit old & never removed/replaced with something like a copper based neversieze etc.

K

If necessary....A safer alternate to using starting fluid, that is, if you can get past the air cleaner , is to spray penetrating oil right to the throat of the manifold while cranking the engine. , it won't start right off, but it's much safer on the engine, plus it will lubricate the cyl. walls at the same time. Starting fluid drys the walls off, and over a prolonged use will help wear out the rings.

1) Your engine uses glow plugs to preheat the combustion chamber to facilitate cold weather starting.

2) Those plugs are activated when you switch on the key, and shut off automatically when a sensor indicates the engine block or head has reached a certain temperature.

The most likely point of failure in that system, and likely also the cheapest and easiest to fix, will be the sensor (or "sending unit") that is measuring the temperature of the block or head. The lack of "engine preheat" indication at the helm could be due to a failure of the sensor if the sensor. You should be able to put a wrench on the unit, back it out, and replace it in a matter of several minutes and the parts cost should be minimal. It could be something more complex, but considering the cost to get a qualified marine electrician down to your boat for a couple of hours swapping the sensor is a prudent first step. (If it doesn't solve the problem, save the one you took out as a spare).

If there is a relay in the circuit (almost certain) I'd check that first.

Got a manual?

Butch <paper2002ad@aol.com> wrote in message

No, I don't have a manual