How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.Any trick that people can offer? Thanks. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Apr 19
2006
|
| More like no copper... the major alloying element in the 5000 series
being magnesium. 6061 is a tougher alloy because it can be heat
treated... the 5000 series cannot. Heat treatables are 2000, 6000, and 7000 series.... Major alloy in
2000 is copper, 6000 is magnesium and silicon, and 7000 is zinc. 6000 series is acceptable in salt water service, but as you suggest,
5000 is probably a better choice if you don't need a hardened
alloy.... |
Gene
Apr 21
|
| Problem with the 6000 is not very formable. You can not bend it to make a
radius bottom, without danger of it wanting to crack or crack in the future.
For flat plates, is good. All Aluminum will have some copper, just part of
the beast, but the alloys mentioned have very minute amounts. |
Calif
Apr 21
|
| That is a classic way to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion.... the weak |
Gene
Apr 21
|
| Oh... you could use 6xxx-O to form and then heat treat, but is sorta |
Gene
Apr 21
|
| And you want 5000 series aluminum. 5086 probably the best for most jobs
where salt water is contacted. 6061 is a tougher alloy. The 5000 is very
low copper content. |
Calif
Apr 21
|
| >before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach |
Gene
Apr 20
|
| If you are using stainless hardware, probably a good idea, you can pretty
much forget about getting any help from a magnet. |
Butch
Apr 20
|
| Seem like someone placed the backing plate for the T-Top _above_ the
deck instead of underneat the deck of my boat. And that backing plate
is not stainless steel and has rusted extensively and is peeling off
rusted chips all over the place. This is the reason why I want to
detach and re-attach the T-Top. Mine is a very strange way of attaching T-top. But sound like what you
saw was even stranger. I will surely add a stainless steel backing plate _underneat_ the deck
if I can somehow hold it in place while I am attaching the bolts and
nuts. I probably need to use some hot-glue or something to temporarily
hold the backing plate in place. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Apr 20
|
| Thanks. The ratcheting wrench idea sounds good, and this gives me one
reason to buy more tools and this is always a good thing. And I
probably ask my wife to do this because she has small hands that
probably can fit into the small space underneat the deck. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Apr 20
|
| I only intend to re-attach it once. Why do I need a stainless steel backing plate (instead of a regular
galvonized plate) if I need to re-attach the T-top frequently? Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Apr 20
|
| Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing
plates. Why ask for trouble? |
Don
Apr 20
|
| I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats. |
dewers
Apr 20
|
| I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I
intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered
my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, the area
where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very
water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing
plate is not stainless steel. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure
this out. Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will
still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it
done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task. Jay Chan |
jaykchan
Apr 20
|
| Good advice. Also, I *really* don't recommend aluminum and steel
combinations.... dissimilar metal corrosion will cause way more
trouble than you want to put up with. |
Gene
Apr 20
|
| Probably not worth the expense, but if you just *must* use a magnet,
use 400 series stainless..... ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Gene
Apr 20
|
| Say what?
You don't want leaking around screws/plates. Use 3M 4200 bedding compound. |
Don
Apr 20
|
| Unless you have a way to isolate them from each other.
I've used 3M4200, liquid tape, gaskets made of plastic etc to make sure
the different metals don't touch each other. If you've ever drilled or
cut 1/8th thick ss plate, you know why I changed to 1/4" aluminum
backing plates. |
Don
Apr 20
|
| I assume this is a Center console boat. Is there a backing plate
underneath the deck of just thick glass holding the T-Top. I saw
another boat where the owner had reversed the way he had it attached.
He put the head of the boat underneath the deck and help the T-Top with
a pair of nylocks |
dewers
Apr 19
|
| Ratcheting box end wrenches? But one example:
http://www.armstrongtools.com/newproducts/geared.jsp Either that or use an air ratchet with a shallow socket. There's probably
enough room to get one in there, possibly with the nut already in the
socket. Just keep a suitable magnet handy to fish the darn things out of
there if/WHEN they wiggle loose. |
Bill
Apr 19
|
