New boat (to me) -- Need zincs/prop -- Advise?

The original owner has two zincs; but I can count 4 (it's in the water right now) -- QUestion: Does anyone know if there's a zinc behind the prop? Is there a place where I can just buy a "zinc kit" for the outdrive?

The "factory" prop is a 14.5 x 19 -- that's what's on there now; max RPM is supposed to be between 4200-4600 and running at 42-45mph

The factory prop is on there now -- it's an ugly thing with non-smooth blades (they appear welded to the hub) and nicks out of hte blade (ala running thru mud etc)

I'm getting at optimium trim 4200rpm but only 30mph. Engine is strong with good even compression. Would going down in pitch (raising RPM) help any with top speed? We're not skiers, we just want this for getting to the mainland from time to time.

Oh -- and one thing that really bugs me -- the trim on these boats.... the trim guage always reads "UP" I suspect the sender is jammed/broken -- but -- should it allow you to raise it to "trailer mode" while underway? This is the 1st boat that's allowed me to do that.

Thanks for any advice -josh

Lots of algae...

I pressure washed the bottom, then scraped most of the barnicles off -- probably need to put some bottom paint on -- but I won't be able to get to that tomorrow (Needs to be really cleaned & sanded 1st)

The prop -- it's pretty dinged along ever edge -- and isn't even at all.

The outdrive -- the fin that goes "down" Looks like it got ground down a bit, I have no reference for how big that fin should be; but there's some unpained aluminum and it's rough like it's been pulled out of the water with the outdrive down. I think that's OK -- and if not; can build up a new fin at a welding shop I'm sure.

NOW, the real question is -- should it "curve" to the side (just a bit)? or should it be straight down?

The prop's hub was in tact, it doesn't appear to have slipped at all.

Thanks for the advice -josh

I'll bet ya, if you do those three things, that boat will perform as it should (or close to it).

--Mike

"Josh Assing" <XjoshX@jAssing.com> wrote in message

Now that it's light out; I took another look -- and yea; there's still more on it; I got almost all the barnicles off - amazing that people would keep a boat in salt water & not have a good coat of bottom paint on it. I guess I'm just used to the sailboat -- I keep her in year round and only paint the bottom once ever 2 years -- this has been in the water 6 months -- I guess that paint really does work well! <g>

I tried to bend the skeg back to verticle; but it's just so slight to the side; I'm afraid I'll break it -- maybe a bit of heat?

Any reference/clues to how far down it should go? It's about even with the prop blade.

for fun.. http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegrear.jpg http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegside.jpg http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/prop.jpg

The shots of the bottom weren't good enough to post -- especially since I got 90% of the crud off...

Thanks for the advice/help!

-josh (My last power boat was a small thing that I hauled out after each use with an outboard, so while a small boat, it's a new world to me)

>>I can get a 19 and 22 pitch prop (for pullin skiers & cruising/top end)<<

That's the exact same setup I had on my Reinell...except the 22 was stainless.

A picture is worth a thousand words, and I think we've nailed your problem.

--Mike

>>V-6, 3.8, 4.3 Litre "1980 thru" OMC Racker14.5x24 = 50-60mph! Whole cow; that's fast batman<<

Atomic batteries to power...turbines to speed... <g>

Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better "bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum). I had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about 45mph. Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if you can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under load, that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole as well.

--Mike

"Josh Assing" <XjoshX@jAssing.com> wrote in message

I knew that going down in pitch would raise the rpm -- but I was wondering if the increased RPM would help with the top end at all.

Since I'm at the lower end of the RPM range, I'm not sure going up in pitch would be a wise choice.

Going down a couple of inches in pitch will get you to the higher end of your WOT RPM and should help out the top end a bit. Like I said something else is keeping the speed down. Have you checked it with a GPS? It's possible that you're going faster than the speedo shows.

--Mike

"Josh Assing" <XjoshX@jAssing.com> wrote in message

Josh Assing wrote:

GPS verified speed as near accurate (actually slower than what was reported on the speedo, but considering the tide -- that would be expected)

Any ideas on what could keep the speed down by 10mph?

The original "Matched Options" book has this listed:

High Performance Propellers V-6, 3.8, 4.3 Litre "1980 thru" OMC Racker14.5x24 = 50-60mph!

Whole cow; that's fast batman

But up 5" in pitch? yikes; that certainly would bog down & overwork the engine.

The prop does have a few dings in the end.

A trial today with glass like water got me to 35mph @ 4600 rpm; so maybe I will go up in pitch

Would going down in pitch (raising RPM) help any with top speed? We're not skiers, we just want this for getting to the mainland from time to time.<<

Going UP in pitch can help your top end, but will also LOWER the RPMs (higher gear on a car). Going DOWN in pitch will help your LOW end (hole shot), and will RAISE ypur RPMs and possible over rev.

Something else is holding your speed down.

--Mike

"Josh Assing" <XjoshX@jAssing.com> wrote in message