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Found a solution for vinyl letters on brightwork!

And what an interesting process it was. The two vendors I contacted looked at me like I was out of my mind while I explained what was needed. (Many people consider me out of my mind- but most have more reason to reach that conclusion then either of these vendors had). In both cases I knew just exactly when the "Aha!" moment occurred and the two disconnected suppliers realized how one simple step would solve a problem that has long afflicted owners of boats with bright transoms and quarterboards.

The problem: Boaters applying vinyl letters to quarterboards ("name boards" in some circles) and other brightwork find it very difficult to maintain the finish on the brightwork without screwing up the vinly letters as the years go by. It's good pactice to do at least a scuff-down sand even on brightwork in sound condition and add a couple of coats of varnish each year. Applying varnish over the top of existing vinyl letters tends to "lift" the edges and that will lead to failure within a few seasons. Masking off the letters and sanding the spaces in between can be ridiculously tedious, particularly with a complex font.

The solution: Apply the vinyl letters to a very thin sheet of transparent plastic, cut to the shape of the quarterboard, and then fasten the plastic sheet to the quarterboard. The wood finish below shows through. When the board needs varnish, the plastic sheet with the letters can be unscrewed, set aside, and then reinstalled when the varnish has set. Under normal circumstances, the vinyl letters will last about 10 years (maybe less in a climate where they are subjected to intense UV exposure), but there is no way to get that sort of life from the letters if trying to refinish around them every year.

The cost: $7.50 for two pieces of plastic at Tap Plastics, plus the labor to shape the plastic to match the curve of the quarterboard. (Could probably have done this myself with a jigsaw and the proper blade, but labor to shape both was only another $22 so I saved the time and bother).

When I showed up, (plastic in hand). at the firm that does the vast majority of boat graphics in the area, they didn't initially understand the concept. They thought I was going to apply the new letters directly to the teak, and then cover the letters with the clear plastic to protect the wood. One comment was, "The letters might not be quite as readable as you want if they're under a sheet of plastic." No, no......the letters go on the plastic and then the plastic goes on the wood. "OH! That's a great idea! I can't remember anybody doing it like that before!"

My transom lettering will go onto the new paint, so no plastic overlay needed there. There won't be a need to renew the paint every year like there's a need to renew the varnish. However, the same concept would likely work very well with vinyl lettering on a bright transom.

chuckgould.chu...
Jun 13
2006
>it is important to sand between coats and that brings you back around >full circle to the difficulty of sanding around lettering.

I agree that sanding the first 3 or 4 coats is a pain but the more you build it up, the easier it becomes.

Wayne.B
Jun 14
With the beautiful work you are doing on your boat, have you considered having the quarterboards engraved rather than using vinyl letters?

RCE

www.eisboch.com

RCE
Jun 13
chuckgould.chuck@gmail.com writes:

> And what an interesting process it was.

Consider have the signmaker cut you a sandblast mask instead of vinyl lettering. Then you can sand carve the letters into your brightwork, and refinish the wood from time to time to your heart's content.

Richard
Jun 14
If you're going to varnish over the vinyl, why bother putting it on a plastic sheet? Why not just stick the vinyl letters to the wood and varnish the whole thing? Keith
Jun 14
Chuck, I have seen this done with White Plastic Boards and then hang the boards from the railing or attaching them to the quarterboard, but that would not look as nice as your plan. With all the work you have done on the boat did you consider having your letters carved into a teak board using a router, and then attaching to board to the boat, either screwing it into the quarterboard or any appropriate place. Reginald
Jun 14
I prefer the vinyl letters, personally. They are more legible than letters routed in. To read routed letters at all you really need to paint them, and that introduces additional work and maintenance. We letter the quarterboards, the port and starboard life rings, and the transom, and we use the same green that we use in the whale stripe and boot stripe as the basic letter, shadowed by gold for additional contrast and legibility. Picking up the stripe color in the graphics is a nice, decorative touch, and maintaining a consistency with the letters on the life rings and on the quarterboards enhances the overall appearance, (IMO). chuckgould.chu...
Jun 14
>plastic sheet? Why not just stick the vinyl letters to the wood and >varnish the whole thing?

That was my point. Chuck is the one experimenting with the plastic sheeting, not me. It will be interesting to see how it works out, may turn out to be OK in the Pacific North Wet but doubt that it would hold up here in the sunny south.

Wayne.B
Jun 14
Varnishing over the vinyl tints the lettering, and the edges of the letters want to "lift" after the first coat. To build up the varnish, it is important to sand between coats and that brings you back around full circle to the difficulty of sanding around lettering. For obvious reasons, you would not want to sand the vinyl lettering. chuckgould.chu...
Jun 14
Great idea Chuck!

--Mike

<chuckgould.chuck@gmail.com> wrote in message

MGG
Jun 14
Yeah, but what about that clear plastic? It's very likely going to craze, cloud up or otherwise show signs of considerable aging as well. Bill
Jun 13
Probably true. My solution is to put lots of coats of varnish over the graphics, sanding lightly between coats. Gradually the surface begins to level out to the point where you can varnish and sand without worrying about what is underneath. Wayne.B
Jun 13
   

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