E-TEC mystery for Bilgran

Heh...

Anyway, I've got a proposition for you - solve this E-TEC "mystery" in one and I'll buy lunch time pizza for the guys in your shop or alternatively, donate that same amount of money to a charity of your choice (except for the Red Cross - I refuse to donate anything to them).

Before I go any further, I have had zero problems with the 225s - nary a burp. And those I know have had zero problems. So if you are out there, She Who Must Not Be Named, I don't want to hear a word out of you

Ready Bill?

This is my new E-TEC 200 HO which was the repower for my Ranger 200C. At idle, after about 15 minutes of run time, it burps, stumbles, hesitates, hiccup - however you want to describe it. Everything else appears normal. It will do this about once every 5 to 6 minutes of run at idle or trolling speed.

At about 40 minutes run time, it will light up all the warning codes on the gauge, but not default into SAFE mode.

Within 10 minutes the above event, individual trouble codes will appear one by one and the engine will default into SAFE mode, but if you shut it off, turn it back on, the engine is normal until it happens again.

Interesting part #1 - the total time between failures decreases - which is to say that the failures occur in a shorter time span - for instance, first one at 10 minutes, next at 8, next at 5, etc.

Interesting part #2 - it will default into SAFE mode without any codes. :>)

Believe it, it had a bunch of people scratching their heads until some bright tech at BRP came up with the answer.

So, what 'cha think?

Along another line of thought is that there is an AC component leaking into the various DC voltage circuits. There is also a possiblility of wing nuts on the battery or loose connections, but you've been around too long to have that on your boat.

I don't have a manual with me, so this is only from the top of my head. What was the final outcome?

Bill Grannis service manager

On your NO OIL signal, first the system has to be completely bled of any air. Sometimes running the self-winterizing mode with help get rid of any, refer to your owners manual. If it still continues, have your dealer tech call the factory hotline about testing the oil pump output. Basically the test consists of putting an air bubble in one line, and at 2000 rpm, the pump stroke should move the oil about 1". Some pumps moved them less and still lubricated the motor OK, but did not have the extra power that should be there.

Bill Grannis service manager