bilge pump Q for bayliner 2150 classic
hi all,i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery.. so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for? also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery... thanks! |
kyle
Oct 10
2006
|
| thanks for all of the responses!! i can describe the symptoms a little better as i got out last night and
started tinkering... when i connect the bilge pump to the battery, it emits a low humming
noise. when i put the key in the ignition and turn on the manual bilge
pump, it emits a loud humming noise. when i flip the manual bilge pump
switch off, the low humming noise remains... there is no water by the
pump, either... what do you guys think? |
kyle
Oct 11
|
| There are different types of bilge pumps. The most common type uses either
an internal float switch or is used in conjunction with an externally
mounted float switch. If you have this type, my guess is your float switch
is bad (shorted or stuck) Another type works on an internal timer and load sensing circuit. It turns
on automatically every so often, runs for a bit and senses how much current
it is drawing. If there is no water and therefore no load, it shuts off
until the next timed cycle. If there is water, the motor draws a bit more
current and it continues to run until the current drops below the setpoint. If I were you I would invest in a new bilge pump and float of the former
type. I don't care for the automatic, timed ones. Eisboch |
Eisboch
Oct 11
|
| Something hinkey is going on. I suspect that some other device is wired in
series with the pump.
I do like the automatic ones because they can suck more water out of the
bilge and you don't need a float switch. Ideally, if there is room, I would
install a second, larger, conventional pump with a float switch and manual
override. Redundancy is good!
Jim |
Jim
Oct 11
|
| It is time to buy a new pump and before installing the pump, check the
wires from the bilge to the switch to make sure there is no short. If you have a short, and you can not see an obvious problem at the
battery or switch, install new wires from the bilge to the switch. For me the time you spend repairing a pump, or chasing down a short, it
is cheaper to just replace it and the wiring. |
Reginald
Oct 11
|
| Why thank you Jimmy.
I do not intend to educate you on Bayliners and bilge pumps, however,
If you would do some research and answer your own questions, I am
certain that you would be enlightened.
You may now have the absolutely last word,
Jim |
jiminfl
Oct 11
|
| A float switch looks like or similar to
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/33988/0/0/float%20switch/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Put the float switch in electrical parallel to the manual switch. Your
manual switch may be on or failed in the one position. |
Calif
Oct 11
|
| And here YOU go adding ANOTHER personal attack......
people in glass houses..... |
basskisser
Oct 11
|
| Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position. If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project. You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running...you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours. |
Oct 10
|
| Here is some picture of the typical bilge pumps. |
Reginald
Oct 10
|
| Might want to re-think that advise. 1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and the
owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled. Eisboch |
Eisboch
Oct 10
|
| I think every boat on our dock has their boat plug in to an electrical
outlet right along side their boat. Not only to run the battery
charger, but also to run lights, stove etc while they are at the dock.
Since I use very little electricity, I get billed a nominal fee for the
use of the outlet, $5/month. The Corp of Engineers required a certified electrician to do the wiring
to the outlets to make sure it is properly grounded. All extension cord
must screw into the outlet and the boat so it won't get pulled out of
the socket, but I have never had a problem with electrolysis. I check
my zincs annually, and they are always in great shape. |
Reginald
Oct 10
|
| Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater. Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords. YMMV. |
Oct 10
|
| Eisboch didn't even come close to saying that electrolysis wouldn't
happen. He said it could be controlled so that it's minimal, and it
can. With it being correctly controlled, it's a hell of a lot better
than sinking the boat. Did you ask your electrical engineer whether
he'd rather control electrolysis or have his boat sink because the
battery ran down?? |
basskisser
Oct 10
|
| If this is the only thing wrong with your new boat then congratulations are
in order. You got a great deal. A bilge pump shouldn't kill the battery in a week. The easiest thing for you
to do is get a fully automatic bilge pump and wire it directly to the
battery thru a waterproof fuseholder and fuse.
You need to consider the diameter of the existing hose and available space
for mounting the pump at the low point in the bilge. Think about having a mooring cover made for the boat. It keeps the boat
cleaner, drier, and to some degree, safer from theft and vandalism. Think about dual switched batteries. Every boat with an engine should have
them; IMO.
Jim |
Jim
Oct 10
|
| Just to add to the subject ... JimH had a point about the portable battery
charger. Most of them recommend removing the battery from the boat before
charging ... I suspect due to the potential of any gas fumes and sparks when
hooking up the portable charger. Built-in chargers that are hardwired to
the batteries are a different story and are what most boats on slips are
equipped with. Eisboch |
Eisboch
Oct 10
|
| If the original poster was thinking of using a non marine portable
charger, and running ordinary extension cords from an electrical outlet
not properly grounded, and exposed to the elements, that would not only
not be prudent and but it could be deadly. Electrolysis could be the
least of his problems. If he has his electrical outlet properly installed for marine
environment, and is using a marine shore power extension cord, it really
should not be a problem. David Pascoe article was emphasizing what you
need to do to use electricity safely in a marina, and what can happen if
people do not have their electrical systems properly grounded. I don't
know why, but I have NEVER had a problem with my zincs or the outdrive
corroding or showing any signs of electrolysis. If I did, I would
contract the marina immediately so they could track down the boat
causing the problem. |
Reginald
Oct 10
|
| You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy. |
jiminfl
Oct 10
|
| You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy. |
jiminfl
Oct 10
|
| Whatever. Having a bad day? |
JimH
Oct 10
|
| Watch out, you're cruising for a bipolar rant from him!! |
basskisser
Oct 10
|
| What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float |
Oct 10
|
