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Neat tool for cleaning off rust.

A guy brought in a starter to me today for a rebuild, and it had all the paint removed, and was really, I mean, REALLY clean. No chemical used, nor sand blasted.

I wondered what he did to clean the core so well, and not put it in a tumbler, or use chemicals or sand . the metal was very nice.

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel", He uses it to take heavy paint off of engine blocks on antique tractors and cars he restores. he said it takes the thick paint and rust off with ease.

I'd heard fo them but never did see one used, or their finished product. he said it beats using a wire wheel, in a drill, and it doesn't jerk and fly around. After seeing his finish product before prime and paint, I was really impressed.

There are different makes and types. He says he got an attachment to put in a typical air chisel, but you can get a dedicated tool as well.

The boat I bought, the trailer is quite rusty, and it's going to get stripped , primed and painted this winter, and I really wasn't wanting to use paint stripper, and the ideal of dancing with a drill wheel isn't my idea of fun, so I'm going to order an air chisel, that is, if I can't find one locally.

http://all-kmarine.en.alibaba.com/product/50139207/50686166/Pneumatic_and_Electrical_Tools/Pneumatic_Jet_Chisel.html

Anyone, ever use one?

comments?

Thanks!

tschnautz
Nov 13
2006
@h54g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: Larry
Nov 14
@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com: Larry
Nov 14
exactly, but it should look like a nice traier, instead of something brought up from the deck of the Bismark.. ?: >

Larry wrote:

tschnautz
Nov 14
That looks interesting, I normally use a sandblaster for that sort of thing, but it's a bit messy and some things you have to be careful not to leave leftover sand in. James
Nov 14
--Vic Vic
Nov 13
If this link works ok, harbor Freight has one for $50. and replacement cartridges for $10.

3mm rods

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1109

I figure that might be a cheap experiment.

tschnautz
Nov 13
Just remember to check if you air compressor can handle the CFM requirements of the tool. Short
Nov 14
Oh, believe me, Tom. it deffinately can. 10 hp v twin dual stage with 750 gal. of storage capacity. I think it would out run me..... ?:> tschnautz
Nov 13
In that case, if the needle gun doesn't do, you can roll that trailer on a tarp and sand blast it. BTW, I've cleaned plenty of metal, and the nicest equipment I've used for small stuff is a blast box blowing glass beads. Won't take metal off and does a polish finish. Wasn't mine, it was at Beaver Heat Treat in Oregon, where I worked for a short while. But if I did a lot of metal cleaning I'd set up such a box. --Vic Vic
Nov 13
Thaks Vic. i run a starter/alternator/generator shop, and I have a blast cabinet. and use it quite a bit. I don't go over 90 psi because theres no need for me to do so. Thats one reason I have quite a large volume tank. Actually the main compressor tank plus a 500 gal propane tank. Actually I don't even need a compressor that heavy, but I bought it cheap, so therefore economicly it's been well worth the overkill. No way can I outrun my compressor with my blast cabinet.

I've thought of the idea of sand blasting the trailer, I can push it up to 175 psi. with no problem, but I'd have to do it out of doors, which means I'd need to run quite a bit of hose and use a whole bunch of sand. I agree that glass bead is a lot nicer and does a really neat job, but at about 24 bucks a bag compared to $6 for sand. it's more economical to go the cheap route. I was thinking the chisel would be better because I can use it in the warehouse when it's 20 degrees outside with snow blowing up the pazoo.

tschnautz
Nov 13
Yep - used them on exactly the same ting he did - antique tractors and the International L-110 pickup.

>comments?

You need to get used to them and they will put a unpleasant dent in your body if you slip, but they work well.

You still need to do wire wheel and wire brush work though.

Short
Nov 13
Thanks Tom, I thought the tool was to eliminate wire brushing, though. tschnautz
Nov 13
What I meant was that some fine work will still be needed. Short
Nov 13
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

I have a thousand hours using a needle gun back when I was a junior ET aboard USS Everglades (AD-24) about 1966...."Those Were The Days". I don't believe anything makes more noise on a steel bulkhead than a needle gun on 60 PSI of air....(c;....or makes a sleeping Chief any madder...

Now I remember why I was so hot to sew on more stripes!

Larry

Larry
Nov 13
Yep, Thats a needle gun, They serve their purpose well, but the needles can leave pock marks on mild steel, The best way to avoid pock marking the metal is to place the needles at 45 degree's to the surface. I also wouldn't use one on anything made of cast iron. Just my 2 cents. UD capuglydan
Nov 13
Thanks guys,

As you know, a trailer is made (usually) of a lot of heavy, flat, squared stock with little change in it's surfaces. With exception of brake lines and fender, suspension supports, it ought to do well on the majority of stuff. I haven't looked that much, but if I can un-bolt the fenders. I'll do them individually, as well as the total frame. I might look things over and wait till this spring, because I can dump the tub off into my neighbors pond, and re roller the trailer and do it all at once. But, thanks for the tip on angling the needle gun. I have seen pics of them that do have the needles in an "upward" angle.

tschnautz
Nov 13
   

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