Free Credit Report

HELP!!  Electrical problem with 4.3L GL I/O engine

I have a 99 Larson with the Volvo 4.3 L 190 HP engine. When it starts it runs quite well but today it seemed to be totally electrically dead: no noise at all when trying to crank, no lights, no horn, no blower, etc.

The battery is brand new (one day old), fully charged and the clamps are tight. This has been an intermittent problem where I would let it sit for a bit then it would be ok but today it would not show any sign of electrical life at all. The positive cable seems to be tightly connected down near the starter. I can't get at the neg. cable. The fuses seem to be ok and if it was a fuse I would think that just some circuit(s) would be affected and it would not be this intermittent problem.

What should I be looking for that would shut down the entire elec. system?

Please help! I am very far from any Volvo service shop and need to fix this on my own. I am sure this must be something very simple I do have an ohm-meter but it was at home three hours away today.

Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Inno
May 21
The negative cable is just as important as the positive one. Clean both. Then check and clean the other end of both.

"Inno" <inno.dubelaar@gmail.com> wrote in message

jamesgangnc
May 22
Take a meter reading from the Positive terminal to the engine block. If no or very low voltage take a reading from the Negative terminal to the end of the positive lead. Both ends. Find out where the open in the circuit is. Calif
May 22
Check your tilt and trim fuses, any short will blow the fuse and your system will be dead.

Calif Bill wrote:

Dry
May 22
There are usually 2 paths 12v takes on a small boat once it leaves the engine area. The first is thru a harness that probably has a plug on the engine end. This set of wires runs your ignition, instruments, and anything else that the boat mfr. deemed necessary to operate from the ignition switch. The second path/s, which should be fused but often is not, runs everything else on the boat. The origin for all of these paths is either the + battery post or a terminal on the starter. The common ground on your engine should be a stud on the back side of a cylinder head or the -battery post.

Your problem went from intermittent to solid. Did anything work right after you changed the battery? Could you have left off a wire that should have been connected to the battery?

Try this simple test. Turn your blower on and start wiggling all of the wires that you can get your hands on in the engine room. If the blower sputters or runs when you touch something, you have put your hands in the problem area.

Some of the things that could be causing you grief are internal or external corrosion of wire terminals ( particularly if they are steel). Corrosion on the studs or posts they are connected to. A loose connection could lead to arcing, which will cause a totally bad connection and or insulation melting. A bad engine harness connection ( only if this is your only source of 12v under the dash).

Good luck, Jim P.S. Keep a meter on your boat at all times.

"Inno" <inno.dubelaar@gmail.com> wrote in message

Jim
May 22
There doesn't seem to be electrical joy anywhere on the boat. Will a trim Jim
May 22
I'll ask this, only because I have actually seen this done.

Did you take the plastic cap(s) off of the battery terminal(s)?

Gene
May 22
Hee Hee ! Jim
May 22
While the fuses are probably not appearing blown, check them with a continuity tester anyway. All of them. Then check the rubber covered fuse holders & the fuses themselves for dirt/grime/film and clean them. On the SX drives, I think there is a pair of fuses, like 20A & 30A, that power most of the circuits including the solenoid(except for the starter).

This is from memory, check your manual.

Let us know how it goes.

Rob

trainfan1
May 22
The harness could certainly be the source of the problem. I have the same engine on my boat and had to disconnect the harness in order to remove an upholstered trim panel while installing a new swim ladder last Sunday. We splashed the boat that same day and prior to doing so I reconnected the battery and tested for power without starting the engine by turning the ignition key one click. None of the gauges lit up so I checked the battery switch, which was on and battery connections, which were tight. Finally it occurred to me that I had disconnected the harness (located at the top front port side of the engine) earlier in the day. I reconnected it, tightened the holding strap and..I got power!

Perhaps the harness connection was bumped or otherwise loosened and it is a good place to start.

JimH
May 22
Connect a jumper cable between the NEG terminal and engine block. Joy? JR
May 22
I was going to suggest using a coat hanger and test the power of the battery by jumping positive and negative.

Hmmm - on second thought...

DON"T TRY THAT!!!

Short
May 22
   

Disclaimer: This is a computer-generated and formatted feed of current postings to a public
Internet forum. We do not control the information delivered, nor do we endorse or monitor its
content. Internet forums may carry offensive, harmful, inaccurate, and otherwise inappropriate material.
Click to see the RSS XML version of this page   Click to see the Atom XML version of this page