all things equal - does longer rod length = casting distance

so my question, all things equal (same make of rod, same line, same reel, same lure weight rating), for overall casting distance, would it be better to get the 7'6 over the 7 footer? will that extra 6 inches add much? I figure my 7 footers cast further than my 6'6 but those are all different makes and models so I really can't be definitive about the added 6 inches, thus the question to experience on what would be my first 7'6 rod. I don't want to get a 'light' rod as I think this would be too much a noodle rod on the boat for LM and prove too selective as I think I will like a light lure rod on the boat as well for situations when the guy running the trolling motor is fishing different than me and I similarly need the distance with light lures.

I have a pretty good partner and we switch off whose boat we use, but sometimes we wind up back boating each other. For puitching distance Hammer (my partner) is pretty incredible, but I have gotten to where I can pitch or sidearm well enough to get my bait in where I want it often enough to catch soem fish.

I know I haven't really answered your question. Yes I do believe that rod length can help, but for light lures I would look at line size and rod action. On Oak Creek I have fished inline spinner baits as light as 1/16th oz by going down to 6lb test on a light action rod. A comprimise might be to use a small size of Power Pro. Supposedly the smaller diameter relative to line strength supposedly gives slightly better castign distance, and the no-stretch qualities might help to over come some of the slowness of a lighter power and/or slower action rod. JMHO.

The full spool, IMHO, is just as important. Fewer turns required for the line to peel out as much line. Less friction thru the guides, too.

Mark

--- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.726 / Virus Database: 481 - Release Date: 7/22/2004

Yesterday I was at Fishermen's Blessing, a Nashville tackle shop owned by Don Beck. In addition to selling high performance tackle, Don builds custom rods and teaches rod building in the shop. Customers can come in and build their rods right there on the premises over a period of days or weeks, as their schedule permits. (Don also runs an instructional guide service similar that focuses on instruction -- how to select and use tackle, rods, and other equipment -- rather than just putting the clients on fish.)

I showed him two All Pro rods I had just purchased, and he conducted two tests on them to determine if the guides were properly positioned in relation to the spine and if the spacing was correct. As Don evaluated the rods, he mentioned that those two factors could make a huge difference in casting distance and accuracy, compared to a poorly constructed rod using identical materials. I think he said it could be as much as 25%. He cautioned me that a high price tag and excellent reputation didn't ensure proper construction and suggested that if I carefully check even premium brands, I'll find the majority of them do not have guides properly aligned or spaced.

Joe Haubenreich

"D.Norton" <therodmaker@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:10g5u4fnv7av304@corp.supernews.com... In your instance I would stick to a rod in a med/light class, in the 6'6 " tot 7'0" range. Look to a larger spool for your reel and fill it to optimum(sp). Look for a quality rod, such as Loomis ,Alstar,or the like . Your reel and the guides and their placement will all have bearing on your casting distance. It is a combination of all the above that will give you the best casting distance.

Family, Friends, Fishing, Rob Storm http://stormsrestaurants.com

1. The first test conducted by Don Beck at Fishermen's Blessing was intended to locate the rod's spine. He had a hardwood stand that looked like it might have been home-made. It was constructed of two 1" x 4" x 12" boards, joined to form an "x," resembling an old, wooden Christmas tree stand. In the center of the "x" was a 1-inch diameter stainless-steel cone (spine finder tip) that resembled a plumb bob tip with its point upward. (See http://www.rods4u.com/tackle/rtools.html for illustration).

Don centered the butt of the rod on the point of the cone and then, with the rod vertical, placed the palm of one hand on the rod tip. Then he gently pushed against the side of the blank with his other hand, and as the rod arched, he allowed it to rotate freely so that when the rod came to rest the spine was on the outside of the curve. He actually rolled it slightly one way and then the other to see if it would rotate back to the same point each time. On the perfectly-built baitcaster where guides are on the top, they were opposite the spine (on the inside of the curve). On a spinning rod where guides are on the bottom, they should be exactly on the spine, along the outside of the curve. This placement keeps the rod from twisting to one side while fighting a fish.

You may get some disapproving glances, but it might be worth it to build a pocket version of the spine-finder tool and take it with you to the tackle shop next time you are in market for a rod. Place it on the floor and test each rod until you find one with properly aligned guides. You could probably build one from a 3" x 3" piece of 1/4-inch plywood (large enough to anchor with the toe of your shoe on one corner) and a 1-inch wood screw protruding through it.

2. The second test checked the guide spacing. Don had a length of fly line (about 10 feet) with a wire lure clip on one end. The other end passed through the end of a stainless steel trotline hook -- about 4/0 -- and then was tied back to the main line with two half-hitches or a taught-line hitch. (Another version in his workshop had a little leather tab that served the same purpose as the knot.) This formed an adjustable loop with the hook dangling in the center.

Don hooked the clip around the last guide's shaft inside the supports (not through the line guide ring), and then he centered the hook tip in the butt of the rod and adjusted his knot (which slid easily on the coated fly line) so the rod was arched. The tip section ended up at approximately 45-degree angle to the butt section of the rod.

Next, he tied a piece of monofilament line through the bottom guide, at the side of the ring closest to the rod, and threaded the line through all the guides. He then tightened the fishing line, rotated the rod so the guides were along the outside of the arch, and then looked from the side to see if the mono contacted the blank at any point. He explained that guides should be positioned so that during the cast the line would feed through the guides without slapping the rod, which robs the cast of distance.

Last, he checked guide wraps (making sure that on single-foot guides the thread was not only over the foot, but that a few turns were under the foot at the top to keep the guide from working loose), checked for roughness, nicks, or scratched in the blank itself, examined the quality and construction of the cork grip, and verified the alignment of the reel seat with all the eyes (looking down the length of the rod to make sure everything lined up). He probably did several more things that I didn't notice before pronouncing the rod worth buying. I'll bet RodMaker could fill in some gaps and create a great "rod-buyer's guide" for our FAQ.

So, there you go.... take your coiled up flyline/hook/clip, a length of monofilament line, and your pocket spine-finder with you to make sure your next fishing rod performs optimally.

Joe Haubenreich

Joe -- what were the two tests? I think I know how to test the spine, but tell me again so I know for sure. Thanks.

Family, Friends, Fishing, Rob Storm http://stormsrestaurants.com

As for the spine finding test, an easy way to do this in a store is to set the but end on the floor. Hold the rod at 45 degrees, with the tip end in the palm of one hand use the othe to put a bow in the rod downward. Push down at about 2/3 of the way up the rod. A spinning rod will show the guides on the inside of the rods curve. While a csating rod will show the guides on the out side of the curve.

If you see anything else put the rod back on the rack!

To test a rod for guide placement is more difficult in a store. The best thing to do is "train" your eye to what is right. However that cannot tell you if the stripper guide of a spinning rod is correctly positioned. Only putting a reel on the rod and test casting will tell you this.

And for all the fancy spine finding geegaws, the method I described is the easiest to use . You will actually be able to feel and see the spine jump.Besides you stand a better chance of not being chased out of the store.

I had occasion to use this method at the BPS in Nashville, I even showed a clerk how to do it . A few minutes lateer I spied him checking the spine on rods randomly. Go figure!