Bass Boats/Props -

Currently runs about 60 in good water with the bow trimmed up, but Nitro's literature suggests 64-65 can be expected.

Ya'll know where to start looking for information regarding propping out a boat properly?

Thanks.

www.jerrys-world.com/Again.txt

Besides, it's fun and gives you more fishing time.... At least that's what I tell my wife.

I sold nitros for a couple of years and rigged more than a few 882s. It's a tweaky hull, and there are a few things you can do to help it out.

Tracker usually rigs that boat with a 23 Tempest, which isn't a bad choice, but not optimum.

Normal tweak on an 882 is a 23 TRO4 Powertech, raise motor to top hole on jackplate, install a T&H holeshot plate, torque tab and you've just about done everything you can. This should run you up to 5,700 rpms, quicker holeshot, take the wheel torque out, and give you your 63-65 mph you're looking for.

http://www.trackerowners.com/nitroowners/ Lot's of Nitro owners here, and most are more than helpful. You won't get bashed for owning a nitro here like you will on other bass boat sites.

Thanks,

Jim

Thanks a lot for the information; that's exactly the type of info that will help me decide if it's worth it.

Regards,

Jim

It's a looong run to the south end of Kissimmee, from the city park on Toho where the tournament began.

The south end of Kissimmee is where the bass were caught.

I tried staying in Toho, and blanked.

That's why I'm trying to optimize my rig. Even if I am able to get a few more MPH out of it, I understand that the 21 footers with the 250's and 300's are going to leave me in their wake; but it will extend my own range and fishing time.

And, as I don't have a spare prop for my boat yet anyway, why not try to find one that gives a bit more 'oomph' while I'm at it?

Rich P

I've setup and rigged about 30 or so 882's over the past two years, and some guys liked the factory setup just fine, some didn't. The ones who didn't we went to work on to find the optimum prop/motor height/accessory combo which produced the best results.

I'm by no means saying this is the best possible, because someone might come up with something even better, it's just my own experience with that particular boat/motor combo.

I can also tell you what didn't work either, which can save some poor soul a lot of time and money chasing down that elusive last mph.

I really appreciate your sharing your experience in this.

Right now, if I trim my current configuration for optimum speed, there's significant torque on the steering wheel to the left, and the tach reads 4900-4950 (standard tach that came with the boat); and if I trim to 'steering neutral', the RPM's are at about 4800 and speed is at about 55. This is with a tournament load, say 150-200 lbs gear and two anglers, in typical lake conditions, not glass smooth at 64 degrees and whatnot that the factory figures in their calcs.

Was checking my manual today, and Merc recommends a full throttle RPM range of 5250 - 5750, with optimum being in the 'upper half' of that range. I'm not getting anything like that at full throttle, which could be two things (as I understand it): either an imperfect balance of load, trim and prop, or perhaps the tach is not reading correctly.

From what I currently know (which admittedly isn't much) I would guess a different prop pitch would help with boosting the full throttle RPM's into the correct range as recommended by Merc. IIRC, my prop is the 23 tempest you mentioned in a previous post.

Another question: the original dealer told me there was something that could be adjusted on the prop itself, having to do with the exhaust holes which could change the amount of slip in a holeshot, and was a way of tweeking the prop. Does that sound like BS or is it true?

Thanks,

There is a difference between cold and hot weather, be prepared for your boat to fall off when it begins to get in the high 80's.

If you can't drive it to it's potential, find somone who can and have them teach you. Nothing is more frustrating than to have something you physically can't use. This of course is if you didn't buy your boat from a dealer. If you did, it is their responsibility to provide you with what you thought you bought. Most tracker centers would rather eat dead flies than go to the lake. (one of the biggest reasons I'm not there anymore)

Some things are a simple fix, remember 90% of your boats performance is the prop and motor height. Other issues, like your wheel torque are actually fairly easy to cure, torque tab for $20 and ten minutes and you're fixed.

Those plugs adjust the amount of exhaust vent, so your prop can wind up easier, which you need to get that butt heavy 882 up and running.